Monday, May 9, 2016

An American guide to New Zealand Foodie Culture - Cafes, Meat Pies and Coffee

We were pretty unaware of the culinary traditions of New Zealand prior to arriving. We vaguely knew that this was not a "foodie" destination, and that the country was known more for its wonderful natural beauty than for its cuisine. Nine months in, our general observation is that we were spot on - the food is nothing to write home about (though, ironically, that is just what we are doing right now.)

The Kiwi cuisine is mostly a mixture of English style foods - fish and chips, pies, roasts - and then the Maori diet consists of grilled meats and roast veggies, and fresh fruits. NZ also has a lot of Asian eateries - Malaysian, Chinese, Japanese, Thai, Indian, Korean.  We have been pretty satisfied with these takeaway restaurants, the quality of which seems comparable to those we have in the states. Perhaps it is just because we live in a small town, but we don't really have much in the way of fine Italian, French or bistro style dining, and that which we have tried has been average at best.  And we sorely miss Mexican and American Southwest food, which is almost non-existent here.

So what are the food things we will truly miss when we return to the states?  First, NZ is blessed with awesome local produce year round.  There are great fruits and veggies who's quality, taste and freshness is unlike that we were used to in the States on a regular basis.  This is not California produce! The Kiwis do not know how good they have it.  Right now for instance there are seven or eight varieties of apples for under a dollar a pound, three or four different pears that are absolutely stunning, a brand new crop of locally grown mandarins, and both gold and green kiwifruit.  It can be hard to find those fruits when they are out of season, but that is OK - something always seems to be in season since NZ is so temperate, and all of this local produce is seriously tasty.

Also there are fruits we do not have.  The feijoa, for instance, is a native NZ fruit that many people have growing in their yards, but which you can also get in the grocery or fruit markets.  It is EVERYWHERE right now.  This is a cool fruit - it looks a bit like a small, smooth and unripe avocado.  After cutting it open and scooping the fruit out, like a kiwi, it tastes both sweet and sour and has the gritty texture of a pear.  They are interesting, unique fruit.  We have experienced four of five such fruits here that we had never had in the US.

Another thing we will miss is the coffee culture.  We had no idea what a big part of life cafes and coffee are in NZ.  Kendra specifically remarked that every time she goes out with a friend here, they always go to a small, independent cafe.  That has been the same for all of us.  Having people round the house for a casual cup of coffee just doesn't seem to be done here.  And there really is no Starbucks or chain coffee cafe.  Instead, each town has dozens of local coffee shops serving food.  Our town of 40,000 people for instance must have 25 or more different cafes, another five or ten coffee kiosks streets or in malls, AND, just about every bakery or gas station has their own barista making espresso drinks.  Talk about a competitive market!

But the result of that is great coffee.  Whereas in the states most coffee sold is made via drip coffee makers, it seems that the vast majority of coffee here is made via espresso machine, and that the rest is via a coffee press.  We have not even seen a drip coffee maker since arriving!

In a nice cafe, there are staple coffees that are always made by the designated "barista of the day". Flat whites--coffee shot with thin milk and very little foam. Lattes--shot with thicker milk and some foam on the top. Cappuccino--shot with foamy milk. Long blacks--shot of expresso with a bit of hot water. Mocha--essentially a cappuccino with chocolate, commonly known as coffee for the inexperienced.

There are many others as well--americanos, short blacks, affaghettos, etc. Each coffee is truly created here, and most cafes take great pride in their coffees. Despite how long Kendra worked at Mint, for example, she was never deemed worthy to make actual coffees for customers...that was left to the more experienced baristas! (This was also because Mint truly has some of the best coffee in town, and that's most likely because novices aren't allowed on the coffee machine!)


And part of the cafe coffee experience is the design on your coffee, and how pretty it looks!  In nicer cafes, it is expected that the barista will decorate your coffee with some design - usually leaves or hearts or swirls.  Here is a picture of three coffees from Mint - Kendra's mocha on the upper left (it has waves and swirls), the flat white is on the bottom (it has a heart on it - it got a little undone before we realized we were taking pictures of the coffees) and then there is also Lindsay's hot chocolate on the right.

Last, we will really miss the pies.  To be more accurate, Pete, Lauryn and Lindsay will really miss the pies. (Jen kind of likes/tolerates them, and Kendra just isn't a big fan.)  Many people seem to have grown up having pies here as a major part of their diet.  At the local golf club, after every round Pete guesstimate that half the guys get pies from the restaurant, smother it in tomato sauce (kind of like ketchup but sweeter) and eat away.  One golfing partner waxed poetically that as he has grown a little rounder at the middle he no longer has a pie every day (secretly Pete thinks he does)...but that "growing up, my mum always had a hot pie waiting for me when I got home from school."  His eyes got a little misty at that.

What are the pies like?  Most of them have a shell and crusty pastry top, and are filled with mince (ground beef), steak, bacon, and then have options such as onion, cheese, black pepper in with the gravy and meat. Or lots of times you can find a meat pie topped with mashed potato.  There are also white broth based pies, such as chicken (which often have fruit such as apricot or cranberry mixed in) or seafood pies. And then there are potato, egg and other breakfast pies.    At the fancier cafes, you start getting venison and other interesting options such as curried sweet potato (kumara) or mixes of nuts and berries with meat or chicken.

The biggest difference with the pies comes from where you get it.  For instance, you can get pre-made and heated pies at a dairy or grocery store for around $1.50.  We won't miss these, and only made the mistake of getting them on one or two occasions.

Most common is the local bakery pie.  Some of these are run by Asians and some by Euro kiwis.  These are pretty inexpensive, about $3.50 a pie, but quite large, tasty and filling.  These are pretty sweet and gooey, having a gravy mixed in with the filling, so they are not all that healthy! Naturally, Pete, Lindsay and Lauryn love them.  Here is the warm pie display of our favorite local bakery.  Just help yourself!  And..bonus...after 3Pm or so, pies go to about half price.  The number of dudes in their work overalls sitting in their cars outside these bakeries having a post-work "snack" is impressive, as is their waistline : )  

Then there are also more upscale cafes that make very lovely pies, and these can be $6 or so.  Here is the display case at Kristy's Cafe in Wanganui, which most people here would agree (or admit) make the best pies in town.  (Similar to growing up in New Jersey, and declaring allegiance to a favorite pizzeria, people here definitely have opinions as to who makes the best pies in town.)  Kristy's pies are AWESOME! They are slightly larger, the shell and crust is very handmade and flaky, and just seem much more healthy and wholesome.   We wish we could bring a dozen of these home with us, but they probably wouldn't last the flight and layover.

And here is the display case at Mint.  While they don't specifically make pies, they always offer something like a pie, just because we are in NZ you know.  This is a nice display case!

We all have our favorite kind of pies - Lauryn's is steak and cheese, Lindsay's is mince and cheese and Pete likes the Thai steak pies, or from Kristi's Cafe, the venison pie or curried pies.  Mmmmm.

We end with a photo of Lindsay enjoying pie at Kristi's Cafe...

...and also a recent Mother's Day photo of Jen and her girls at Mint Cafe!  Nothing like a caffeine shot to enhance those smiles!



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